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This recipe is extracted from Goat: Cooking and Eating by James Whetlor (Quadrille, £20, Photography by Mike Lusmore).

I just love osso buco: the bone with a hole. This is another dish I wanted to put in the book because of my cheffing days. Traditionally a veal dish, it was and is one of my favourite things to cook. The classic accompaniment is saffron risotto, but it’s great with polenta or roast potatoes too. Use whole shanks if you can’t get them cut across the bone in traditional osso buco style. Or use leg or shoulder steaks. It is best if you can cook the meat in a single layer.


4 pieces of kid osso buco (or 4 small whole shanks)

3 tablespoons plain (all-purpose) flour

2 tablespoons olive oil

30g/2 tablespoons butter

2 onions, finely chopped

5 celery sticks, finely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons tomato paste

3 bay leaves

1 sprig of rosemary or sage

500ml/2 cups dry wine (white, red or a mix of both)

500ml/2 cups kid stock (or use water or chicken stock)

1 lemon

salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the gremolata 

Finely grated zest from the osso buco lemon (after pared strip removed)

1 garlic clove, very finely chopped

3 tablespoons finely chopped flatleaf parsley


Season the osso buco pieces and dust with the flour, then fry in the olive oil in a large pan until browned all over. Transfer to a plate.

Add the butter to the pan followed by the onions, celery and carrots, and cook gently until very soft, aromatic and starting to stick to the pan, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and herbs and cook for 1 minute, then add the wine, turn up the heat and cook for 5 minutes until the wine has reduced by half.

Add the osso buco pieces back in and pour in the stock, making sure that the meat is covered (or at least mostly covered) in liquid. Using a vegetable peeler, pare off a strip of lemon zest (saving the rest to grate for the gremolata) and add to the pan. Cover and cook gently for about 1½ hours until completely tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Meanwhile, mix together the gremolata ingredients. Serve the osso buco in the sauce, sprinkled with the gremolata.

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